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GA MASCARA — JCH7-40-1
Oil in Water Foundation
Powder Cream Make Up
Tinted Moisturizer

GA MASCARA — JCH7-40-1
Ingredient	INCI Name	% w/w
*Water phase*
Deionized water		41.94
Tween 60	Polysorbate 60	0.10
Natrosol 250 MR	Hydroxyethylcellulose	0.20

TRIS-amino	Tromethamine	1.00
Deionized water		3.00

GA7403 Hydrophilic Black Iron Oxide	Iron Oxides, Galactoarabinan	12.00

Butylene Glycol		5.00
Methyl Paraben		0.30
*Wax phase*
Emersol 132	Stearic Acid	3.50
Cerasynt SD	Glyceryl Stearate	3.50
White Beeswax	Beeswax	6.50
Carnauba #1	Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) wax	4.50
Ganex V-220	VP/Eicosene Copolymer	2.00
Propyl Paraben		0.10

Avalure UR-450	PPG-17/IPDI/DMPA Copolymer	15.00

Deionized Water		1.00
Glydant	DMDM Hydantoin	0.36
Manufacturing Procedure: Combine wax phase. Heat to 85-90°C with stirring. Water phase: Combine water and Tween 60, stirring until dissolved. Add Natrosol 250 MR. Begin heating to 75°C with low speed homogenization. Dissolve TRIS-amino in water. Add to water phase. Add pigment. Continue low speed homogenization. Dissolve Methyl Paraben in Butylene Glycol. Add to water Phases. Adjust temperature to 85-90°C. Add wax to water phase while homogenization. Maintain temperature and agitation for 15 minutes. Cool to 50°C with moderate homogenizer agitation. Add Avalure UR-450, avoiding splashing. Cool to 45°C. Combine water and Glydant. Add to batch. Cool to 30°C with sidesweep agitation.

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Oil in Water Foundation
The GA treated pigments disperse easily and wet consistently in the water phase.
Ingredient	INCI Name	% w/w
*Phase 1*
Deionized water		52.84
10% Potassium Hydroxide		0.10
Silwet L-7087 (GE)	PEG-12 Dimethicone	0.10
GA-7811	TiO₂, Galactoarabinan	6.00
GA-7131 Yellow Iron Oxide	Iron Oxides, Galactoarabinan	1.80
GA-7206 Red Iron Oxide	Iron Oxides, Galactoarabinan	1.10
GA-7403 Black Iron Oxide	Iron Oxides, Galactoarabinan	0.20
GA-70707 Talc	Talc, Galactoarabinan	2.90

Butylene Glycol		4.00
Veegum Granules (Vanderbilt)	Magnesium Aluminum Silicate	1.00

Butylene Glycol		1.00
CMC7H3SF (Aqualon)	Cellulose Gum	0.06

Butylene Glycol		2.00
Methylparaben		0.30
10 % KOH		1.20
*Phase 2*
Cromollient DP3A (Croda)	Di PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate	14.00
Bernel Ester DOM (Alzo)	Diethylhexyl Maleate	4.00
Volpo 10 (Croda)	Steareth-10	2.00
Volpo-2 (Croda)	Steareth-2	0.50
Crodacol C-70 (Croda)	Cetyl Alcohol	0.62
Crodafos CS-20 Acid (Croda)	Dicetyl Phosphate, Ceteareth-20 Phosphate, Cetearyl Alcohol	4.00
Propylparaben		0.10
*Phase 2*
Glydant (Lonza)	DMDM Hydantoin	0.18
Manufacturing Procedure: Combine the ingredients of Phase 2. Heat to 75-80°C with stirring. In a separate vessel, combine Phase 1 deionized water and 10% KOH. With slow homomixer agitation, add pigments, homomixing until wetted and dispersed. Combine Butylene glycol and Veegum. Add to water phase. Continue homomixing and heat to 85-90°C for 15 minutes. Cool to 75-80°C. Combine butylenes glycol and CMC. Add to water phase. Continue homomixing until dispersed. Dissolve Methylparaben in remaining Butylene Glycol. Add to water phase. Add remaining 10% KOH to water phase. Slowly add oil phase to water phase while homomixing. Maintain temperature and agitation for 15 minutes. Cool to 45°. Add Glydant. Cool to 30°C with sidesweep agitation. Drop batch.

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Powder Cream Make Up
This treatment allows the formulation of a high solids, powder cream make-up that applies like cream but feels like powder!
Ingredient	INCI Name	% w/w
*Phase 1*
Syncrowax HRC (Croda)	Tribehenin	5.00
AMS – C30 Wax (Dow Corning)	C30-45 Alkyl Methicone	5.00
Ceraphyl 368 (ISP)	Ethylhexyl palmitate	11.00
Dow Corning 345 Fluid	Cyclomethicone	26.00
Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid	Lauryl PEG/PPG – 18/18 Methicone	0.50
Methylparaben		0.20
Propylparaben		0.10
*Phase 2*
AS-5137 Alkyl Silane Treated Yellow Oxide	Iron Oxides, triethoxycaprylyl silane	2.80
AS-5126 Alkyl Silane Treated Red Oxide	Iron Oxides, triethoxycaprylyl silane	1.20
AS-5146 Alkyl Silane Treated Black Oxide	Iron Oxides, triethoxycaprylyl silane	0.20
AS-50230 Alkyl Silane Treated Talc	Talc, triethoxycaprylyl silane	12.90
AS-5061 Alkyl Silane Treated Sericite	Mica, triethoxycaprylyl silane	15.00
Dry Flo (National Starch)	Aluminum starch octenyl succinate	5.00
Manufacturing Procedure: Combine Phase I. Heat to 75-80°C in sealed vessel. Add Phase 2, stir well at 75-80°C. Mix with high shear agitation in a sealed vessel. Stir down to 70-72°C, pour into hermetically sealed cases.

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Tinted Moisturizer
Ingredient	INCI Name	% w/w
*Water phase*
A: Deionized Water		65.22
A: Ultrez 10	Carbomer (Noveon)	0.25

B: Butylene Glycol		4.00
B: Methylparaben		0.20

C: Tris Amino	Tromethamine (Dow)	0.40
C: Deionized Water		1.00

D: Butylene Glycol		2.00
D: Vanzan	Xanthan Gum (Vanderbilt)	0.20

E: Disodium EDTA		0.05
E: Tween 60	Polysorbate-60 (Croda)	1.00

F: Amphisol K	Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (DSM)	2.00
*Oil phase*
G: Dermol 2014	Octyldodecyl Myristate (Alzo)	9.00
G: Escalol 557	Octinoxate (ISP)	4.00
G: Parsol 1789	Avobenzone (DSM)	2.00
G: Arlacel 60	Sorbitan Stearate (Croda)	1.00
G: Alfol 16	Cetyl Alcohol (Sasol)	0.50

H: Color Grind		2.00

I: Glydant	DMDM Hydantoin (Lonza)	0.18
I: Deionized Water		1.00
*Color Grind*
	Dermol 2014	1.00
	SP-4131 Iron Oxides, Silica, Alumina	0.70
	SP-4206 Iron Oxides, Silica, Alumina	0.25
	SP-4405 Iron Oxides, Silica, Alumina	0.05
Manufacturing Procedure: Combine Part G. Heat to 75-80°C with stirring. Prepare color grind on a three roll mill. Add to Part G with stirring. Sprinkle Ultrez 10 into water with slow homogenizer agitation. Heat to 55°C. When dispersed, combine and add Part B. Combine and add Part C. Combine and add Part D. Add Part E ingredients in order. Turn off homogenizer. Add Part F. Heat to 75-80°C with stirring for 15 minutes. Resume homogenizer agitation. Add combined Parts G-H to Parts A-F while homogenizing. Maintain temperature and agitation for 15 minutes. Cool to 45°C. Combine and add Part I. Cool to 30°C. Drop batch.

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